Garment construction



July 22, 1958 P. M. STEVENSON 2,843,849

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Dec. 24, 1954 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 PANSY M. STEVENSON,

I N VEN TOR HUEBNER, BEEHLER,

WORREL 9 HERZIG,

ATTORNEYS.

6.9 a0 26' ZM/y M July 22, 1958 P. M. STEVENSON 3 GARMENTCONSTRUCTION 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Dec. 24. 1954 PANS Y STEVENSON,

' INVENTOR. H UEBNER; BEEHLER,

WORREL 9 HERZIG,

ATTORNEYS. WW

July 22, 1958 P. M. STEVENSON I 2,843,849

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Dec. 24, 1954 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 PANSY M. STEVENSON, v

INVENTOR.

H UEBNER, BEEHLER, WORREL f9 HERZIG,

dTTORNEYS.

United States Patent 2,843,849 Patented July 22, 1958 fire GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Pansy M. Stevenson, Selma, Calif.

Application December 24, 1954, Serial No. 477,552

2 Claims. (Cl. 2-123) The present invention relates to wearing apparel and more particularly to improvements in the construction of smaller end. The longitudinal edges of theblank are stitched together reform a seam. Further, a placket or open slit is formed in the sleeve extending longitudinally from the smaller end approximately one-quarter to onethird of the total sleeve length to permit slidable insertion of the arm into the sleeve.

Usually the cuff is a separate piece of material. A

regular cuff, that is in contrast to a French cuff, normally comprises a strip of material of double thickness and may be soft or inner-lined for stiffness and rigidity. It is provided with a suitable button and buttonhole for fastening purposes.

In attaching the cuff to the sleeve, it is necessary to form gathers in the smaller end of the sleeve in order to provide sufficient taper in the sleeve to enable a'snug fit on the wrist of the wearer. sleeve by suitable stitching and the two then attached to the main body of the garment to whichthey belong.

Essentially the same procedure is followed with French cuffs. Of course, French cuffs require a larger piece The cuff is joined to the X of material for the cuff to enable folding of a portion of 1 the cuff back upon itself in the well known manner. Also,

provision is made in French cuffs for cuff-links fastening rather than buttoning. t

From the foregoing, it is apparent that several disadvantages result from the conventional construction glance at the average laundered shirt sleeve amply illustrates the wrinkled, untidy appearance that gathers give to the sleeve. They are usually of irregular formation and, generally, very little care is taken while ironing to press each gather separately. Even in finely tailored garments where an attempt is made carefully to style the gathers, their appearance is destroyed by the usual pressing job. To iron separately each gather or pleat is an onerous, time consuming, and costly task which is not Further, the manufacture of sleeve and cuffs is made.

more diflicult by conventional methods since they must be separately-formed and joined instead of being made from a single sheet of material.

It is an object of this invention, therefore, to provide improvements in garment construction having particular reference to cuffs.

Another object is to eliminate plackets in sleeve construction.

Another object is to eliminate gathers in sleeve construction.

Another object is to eliminate features of conventional sleeve construction which cause wrinkling incident to manufacture, ironing, pressing, wear and the like.

Another object is to enable the making of sleeves and cuffs from a single sheet of material.

Another object is to provide a sleeve and cuff construction which may be ironed smoothly in a flat position.

Another object is to provide the foregoing improvements in both regular and French cuff styling.

Another object is to eliminate substantially half of the material conventionally used in French cuff construction without impairing the appearance thereof. 7

Another object is to provide a garment having an improved sleeve and cuff construction which is adapted for simplified manufacture, which is easier to put on and remove, which is relatively easy to wash, press and otherwise care for, which has a pleasing style and which is highly attractive in appearance.

These and other objects will become more fully apparent upon reference to the following description.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a sleeve and cuff embodying the principles of this invention shown fitted to the arm of a wearer. V,

Fig. 2 is a transverse section taken through the cuff of the present invention showing the cuff unbuttoned.

Fig; 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2 but showing the cuff buttoned.

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary perspective view of the sleeve and cuff construction.

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary plan view of a blank as em- .ployed in the manufacture of the sleeve and cuff construction of Figs. 1-5.

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6 but showing a blank as employed in making a second form of the present invent1on..

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 1 but showing another form of the present invention as made from the blank of Fig. 7.

Fig. 9 is a cross section taken through the cuff of the form of the invention shown in Fig. 7 showing the cuff unfastened.

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 9 showing the cuff in )fastened condition.

transverse edge 12 and opposite longitudinal edges 13.

The sheet 10 includes an upper sleeve portion 18, shown broken at the middle for drafting convenience, and a lower cuff portion 19. The sleeve is tapered slightly fromthe upper transverse edge 11 of the sheet to the juncture 20 between the sleeveand cuff portions. In

contrast, the cuff is of substantially uniform width from the lower transverse edge 12 to the juncture between the sleeve and cuff portions.

A transverse fold line 25 is provided on the cuff 19 intermediate the lower transverse edge 12 and the juncture 20 between the sleeve and cuff portions which is substantially parallel to the edge 12. The sheet is adapted to be folded transversely back upon itself along the fold line of the cuff thereby providing overlapping inner and outer panels 26 and 27. It is to be noted that the lower transverse edge 12 of the sheet constitutes the free edge of the inner panel and is disposed substantially in align-' ment with the juncture between the sleeve and cuff portions in the folded position. For the purpose of descriptive convenience, this juncture is hereinafter referred to as the hem line. When the panels are overlapped, a plurality of stitches 29 are provided adjacent to the hem line thereby to join the inner and outer panels, as shown in Figs. 1, 4 and 5. Further, a plurality of stitches 30 are provided adjacent to the fold line 25 in the style of making cuffs, well known in the art.

Again referring to Fig. 6, the cuff 19 is also provided with a pair of V-shaped slits or cut-out portions 35 extended from the fold line 25 longitudinally of the cuff along side edges 36 to apices 37. The side edges may be given an irregular or arcuate contour in accordance with the styling desired. When the panels 26 and 27 are folded upon each other, the slits are adapted to meet in coterminous relation with the apices 37 together and the side edges 35 together. In this folded condition, the joined apices extend toward the hem stitches 29 in closely spaced relation thereto.

After the panel 26 has been folded upon the panel 27 and the stitches 29 taken, a longitudinally extended acuminate pleat 45 is formed, as by pressing, in the sheet 10, best seen in Figs. 2 to 4 but indicated by dashed lines in Figs. 4 and 6. For this purpose, the sheet has an inner longitudinal fold line 46, defining the apex of the pleat, extended from the apex 37 of the V-shaped slit upwardly along the cuff portion 19 and into the sleeve portion 18. Further, the pleat provides a pair of pleat sections 47 and 48 having outer surfaces 49 and 50, respectively, in juxtaposed facing relation and inner surfaces 51 and 52, re-' spectively. As clearly shown, the pleat sections are posi tioned on opposite sides of the fold line 46. The pleat sections define outer longitudinal fold lines or edges 53 and 54 which extend from the fold line 25 of the cuff 19 upwardly of the cuff and sleeve portions in adjacent spaced relation to the inner fold line 46. The inner and outer fold lines 46, 53 and 54 gradually diminish upwardly of the sheet from the transverse fold line 25.

The sheet is then wrapped around into substantially tubular form, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, defining inner and outer sheet surfaces 57 and 58, with the apex 46 of the pleat 45 directed inwardly of the Wrapped around sheet and with the facing surfaces 49 and 50 of the pleat sections 47 and 48 directed outwardly of the wrapped around sheet. In this regard, it is also to be noted that the inner panel 26 of the cuff portion 19 is directed inwardly of the wrapped around sheet so that the outer surface of the garment has no rough edges. In addition, the longitudinal edges of the sheet are joined together by suitable stitching to form a seam 59.

The cuff portion 19 further is provided with a plurality of button holes 62, 63, 64 and 65 extended therethrough. Referring to Fig. 6, in particular, the button holes 62 and 63 are located in the outer panel 27 equally spaced on opposite sides of the outer longitudinal fold line 54 and equally spaced from the transverse fold line 25. The button holes 64 and 65 are located in the inner panel 26 and likewise, are equally spaced on opposite sides of the fold line 54 and equally spaced from the fold line 25. The button holes 62 and 64 and the button holes 63 and 65, respectively, are equally spaced from the outer longitudinal fold line 54 so that when the inner panel is folded against the outer panel, the holes 62 and 64 and the holes 63 and 65, respectively, will be brought into registration. Assuming that the panels are folded in this manner, the cuff portion 19 is then pinched along the outer longitudinal fold line 54 and all of the holes are brought into registration. Suitable stitching 66 is then provided through the panels around the aligned holes, as best seen in Figs. 4 and 5.

A button 68, or other fastener, is attached, as by sewing, to the inner and outer panels 26 and 27 of the cuff portion between the outer longitudinal fold line 53 and the adjacent side edge 36 of the V-shaped slit 35 and is spaced from the fold line 53 the same distance as the button holes 62, 63, 64 and 65 are spaced from the fold line 54. It is to be noted that the button is attached to the cuff so that it faces outwardly from the outer panel 27.

Second form A second form of the present invention is shown in Figs. 7 to 12, inclusive. This form is similar to the form of Figs. 1 to 6, except for the cuff construction.

As before, a sheet or blank of material 70 is seen in Fig. 7 having upper and lower transverse edges 71 and 72, respectively, and longitudinal divergent edges 73. The sheet 70 provides a tapered sleeve portion 78 and a cuff portion 79 of substantially uniform width meeting at a juncture 80 again conveniently referred to as the hem line) Further, a fold line is shown on the cuff portion and the sheet 70 is folded back upon itself so as to form inner and outer panels 86 and 87, respectively. The inner panel is attached to the outer panel adjacent to the hem line 80, as by stitches 89, and additional stitches are provided at 90 adjacent to the fold line 85.

The cuff portion 79 is provided with an arcuate cutout portion outwardly curved from the fold line 85. It is to be understood at this point that the contour of the cut-out portion is optional and any contour may be em ployed in accordance with the style desired. Thus, the V-shaped slit 35 of the first form of the invention could be substituted for the arcuate cut-out portion 95 and vice versa. It is only to be noted that when the cut-out portion is made deeper, that is, curved from the fold line a greater distance, there is less possibility that the fold line will be visible at the edges of the cuff, an effect frequently desirable.

A longitudinal pleat is formed having an apex fold line 106, pleat sections 107 and 108 providing inner and outer surfaces and having outer longitudinal fold lines 109 and 110, respectively.

As with the form of Figs. 1-6, the garment is shaped by wrapping the sheet material into tubular form in a manner adapted to fit the arm of the user and by suitable stitching, a seam is provided along the longitudinal edges 73.

The second form of the invention is distinguished from the first form in the provision of a French cuff. The cuff portion 79 is provided with two rows of button holes 120, 121, 122 and 123, inclusive, in panel 87 and 124, 125, 126 and 127, inclusive, in panel 86. The holes 121 and 122 in panel 87 are spaced equally on each side of the longitudinal fold line 106 and from fold line 85 and the holes and 123 are likewise equally spaced from the fold line 106 and from fold line 85. It will be noted that the outer longitudinal fold lines 109 and 110 lie equidistantly between the holes 120 and 121, and 122 and 123, respectively. It will be understood that the holes 124, 125, 126 and 127 are positioned in like manner in the panel 86.

When the inner panel is folded along the line 85 in contiguous relation to the outer panel 87 the holes 124, 125, 126 and 127 are brought into registration with the holes 120, 121, 122 and 123, respectively. The cuff is then pinched along the outer longitudinal fold lines 109 and 110 and the longitudinally registering holes 120, 124 are brought into transverse registration with the consumer.

longitudinally registering holes 121, 125, so that all of these holes in elfect form a single hole. Longitudinally registering holes 122, 126 and 123, 127 similarly are brought into transverse registry also forming a single hole. Suitable stitching, represented at 128 and 129 is then provided around the holes. This not only serves to maintain the respective holes in registration, but also maintains the cutf in pinched condition along the outer longitudinal fold lines. A cuff link 130 or other suitable fastener may then be inserted through the holes when the pleat sections 107 and 108 are brought together.

The form of the invention provided in Figs. 1-6 is attached to the main body portion of a shirt by joining the seam 59 to the underarm seam of the shirt and the upper edge 11 to the shoulder seam. In use, with the button 65 released from the holes 66, 67, an arm 140 of the wearer may he slipped into thesleeve portion 18 and out through the cuff portion 19. The button is then fastened in the hole.

The second form of the invention is worn in a similar manner except that the cuff link 126 is fitted through the holes 120, 121, 122 and 123.

The pleats 45 or 105, in both forms serve to eliminate the placket found in conventional sleeve constructions and also eliminate the need for gathers. Further, the pleat permits the sleeve to be ironed flat thus eliminating unseemly wrinkles. Complete coverage is provided for the wearers arm since no slit or opening is needed in contrast to prior known sleeves.

Manufacture is simplified because only a single sheet of material is needed to form the shirt and sleeve. Because of this one piece construction, less time and work is involved in production, thus reducing the cost to the Because the differences in construction between the regular and French cuff forms of the invention are slight, ready adaptability from one to the other may be made by the user as well as the manufacturer.

Less material is required in making the French cuff according to the present invention, as compared with previous cults, inasmuch as the shape of such a cuff is simulated without requiring the additional folding panel of conventional constructions. This is also advantageous in that it eliminates a difficult task experienced with conventional shirts, namely, that of folding back French cuffs attempting to align the holes and at the same time providing a neat even fold.

This invention, therefore, saves time, inconvenience and expense both from the manufacturers and the users standpoint while improving the appearance of sleeve and cufi constructions.

Although I have herein shown and described my invention in what I have conceived to be the most practical and preferred embodiments, it is recognized that departures may be made therefrom within the scope of my invention, which is not to be limited to the details disclosed herein, but is to be accorded the full scope of the claims so as to embrace any and all equivalent devices and structures.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,

1. A sleeve comprising a sheet of fabric having oppo' site transverse edges, opposite longitudinal edges and a transverse fold line adjacent to one of said transverse edges; the sheet being transversely folded back upon itself along said transverse fold line to form predetermined inside and outside overlapped panels, the inside panel being that formed by the folded back portion of the sheet; stitching joining the panels together; the panels having V-shaped congruent cut-out portions extended from the transverse fold line longitudinally of the panels providing coterminous apices; the sheet having a longitudinally extended transversely V-shaped pleat formed therein providing an apex fold line extended from the apices of the cut-out portions longitudinally of the sheet, and a pair of juxtaposed facing elongated pleat sections each having outer longitudinal fold lines extended from said transverse fold line on opposite sides of the cut-out portions and apex fold line longitudinally of the sheet; the sheet being wrapped around into tubular form with the apex fold line directed inwardly of the wrapped around sheet, with the facing pleat sections directed outwardly of the wrapped around sheet, and with the inside panel disposed on the inside of the wrapped around sheet; stitching joining the longitudinal edges of the sheet; a button attached on the outside panel adjacent. to the cutout portions and located on one of the pleat sections; the panels including a pair of registered button holes correspondingly located in the pleat section opposite to that on which the button is attached, and stitching joining the panels together around the button hole.

2. In a garment, the combination of a tubular sleeve of continuous fabric circumferentially of the sleeve; a tubular cuff integral with the sleeve of continuous fabric circumferentially of the cult adjacent to the sleeve, the cuff and sleeve having a pleat longitudinally thereof providing an inwardly extended longitudinal fold line and angularly related pleat sections on opposite sides of the fold line, the pleat sections having outer edges defined by fold lines longitudinally of the sleeve and the cult, the

cuff having juxtapositioned button holes through one of the pleat sections and through the portion of the cuff opposite to said pleat sections outer edge; and means releasably engaged in the button holes and connected to the pleat section opposite to the button holes holding the pleat sections in adjacent facing relation.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 340,132 Loesner Apr. 20, 1886 1,330,996 Barrow 'Feb. 17, 1920 1,670,644 Weiner May 22, 1928 1,941,959 Sumner Jan. 2, 1934 2,162,536 OMealia June 13, 1939 2,375,779 Freedman May 15, 1945 2,561,161 Weiss July 17, 1951 2,649,589 Shiltong Aug. 25, 1953 

